Archive for the ‘Articles’ Category

X³: Terran Conflict Playing Tips

Monday, June 8th, 2009

X3TC Logo

Starting Out

I think one of the strongest ways to start the game is by selecting the Argon Patriot option. This gives you a fairly well equipped Elite. Do the first few missions in the starting ship. You need the “standing” in order to progress and doing those missions will also give you a little free equipment. Try to take advantage of any pilots who bail out and leave their ship for you to capture.

Abandoned Ships

Once you’ve gotten through the first couple of storyline missions (I skipped them entirely and just did a couple of ‘kill the criminal’ missions), start collecting the various abandoned ships with this relatively safe route that I have found through the galaxy (use the map here to find the specific systems on the route):

Head east from Omicron Lyrae towards Tears of Greed, then south to Menelaus Oasis, then west to Vestibule of Creation. After Vestibule of Creation, head north-west to Ocracoke’s Storm and then up to Argon Prime. While in Argon Prime, dump all the ships there, you can sort them later.

Object Name System Position Coordinates
Buster Sentinel Treasure Chest -32, -5, -33
Elite Gaian Star 66, 0, -10
Skate Prototype Menelaus’ Oasis 38, 10, 32
Blastclaw Prototype Veil of Delusion 47, 3, -41
Advanced Perseus Duke’s Citadel 42, 0, 31
Eclipse Vestibule of Creation -7, -13, 37
Mako Raider Depths Of Silence 2, 0, 40
Enhanced Pericles Savage Spur 44, 9, -28
Advanced Eclipse Ocracoke’s Storm 30, -1, -8

Now head north from Argon Prime to Kingdom End, east to Hila’s Joy and then back to Kingdom End – bringing all the ships you have claimed from the table below with you. Dump them at Argon Prime, too.

Object Name System Position Coordinates
Toucan Hauler Menelaus’ Frontier 43, -7, 35
Iguana Vanguard Family Whi 38, 0, 35
Harrier Sentinel The Vault -18, 0, -51
Buzzard Hauler Tkr’s Deprivation -4, 0, 62
Advanced Barracuda Hila’s Joy -33, 1, 36

Now, from Argon Prime, you can head north-east to Family Whi, then south to Akeela’s Beacon. Strangely enough it is these systems – within 4-5 jumps of Argon Prime, which proved most dangerous for me to navigate because of Xenon or Pirate attacks. (None of these are included in the save game download below).

Object Name System Position Coordinates
Scorpion Raider Xenon Sector 101 20, 0, 61
Buster Sentinel Akeela’s Beacon 100, -10, 77
Mamba LooManckStrat’s Legacy -12, 1, -19

One tactic you might want to use to claim ships is Jump drive and a transporter. You fit one of each to your own ship and fit a Jump drive to a very cheap M5 class ship. Then you tell him to follow you (make sure both ships have enough energy cells) and jump to the system the ship is in (such as Xenon Sector 101). Fly to the abandoned ship, capture it and board your original ship. Use a transporter to send your Jump drive and Energy Cells to the captured ship, then use your transporter to take the Jump drive from the M5. Now tell the captured ship to follow you and jump to safety. If your M5 makes it, great. If not, you only lost a little. I often use this tactic to get slow ships to other locations quicker – don’t be afraid to transport those Jump drives around as needed!

Cheat Much?

I’ve decided to upload a saved game with all the captured ships from the tables that are shown above in bold, you can download it from here. There’s a few extra ships that are captured Pirate ships etc I claimed on my way. The only ship I did not manage to get to Argon Prime was the Buster found in the Treasure Chest system. It may be a good idea when you capture that one to send it to Omicron Lyrae’s shipyard and sell it straight away rather than risking it traveling all that way like I did – it’s shields are quite poor!

The save game shouldn’t really be too much different than a fresh game. The pirates are only just starting to realize you keep killing them, so if you want to turn around and become a pirate’s friend it should still be possible, but you should be aware the Argon really like you – a lot. There’s also well over 1.2M credits in the bank account…

What I’d suggest you do, if you want to use my save game, is keep all of the ship updates and just sell the ships themselves which you do not want. Here is a list of the ships docked in Argon Prime under your control and available in this save game:

Advanced Baracuda
Advanced Eclipse
Advanced Perseus
Blastclaw Prototype
Eclipse
Elite (4 of them)
Enhanced Pericles
Harrier Sentinel
Iguana Vanguard
Mako Raider
Mercury Super Freighter
Nova Raider
Toucan Hauler

Trading in Space Fuel

Space Fuel is an illegal good that can be traded for great profit.

Just like with Reunion, Terran Conflict features a Space Distillery in Herron’s Nebula and although it sells illegal product, you can sell that product to the Free Argon Trading Station within the same system. You can buy Space Fuel for around 700 (do not buy for more than 1200 or you make no profit!) and sell them for 1252 per unit. You may occasionally get caught by the local police, but the rewards are worth it. When the price raises for Space Fuel (this happens when you have taken all their stock quicker than they can produce it), you can probably make money bringing Energy Cells to the station from the Power Circle system.

Once you have around 400,000 credits from trading Space Fuel (or from recovery and sale of the “free objects” listed below), head to Argon Prime and then to the Federal Argon Shipyard where you should buy a Mercury. You should also upgrade the Mercury’s engine and rudder to full capacity and fit it with a Trading System Extension. You should not board the new Mercury.

Now you’re going to be able to fly around the universe in your own ship, doing whatever you want while remotely controlling the Mercury as it continues to trade Space Fuel on your behalf (using the 50,000 credits you didn’t spend to start with). Remotely controlled ships are never scanned by the police, so you’re going to be free of problems. I’d advise you work to try to supply the Space Fuel Distillery with Energy Cells whenever the price of Space Fuel becomes too high. Energy Cells should be bought for no more than 16 credits in Argon space, Power Circle is a good place to start buying. After some time, you may want to consider using manual trade run (which I think becomes available with Trade Mk II) to automate the process – but you will have to accept smaller amounts of profit when the purchase price is high.

You should avoid building a Space Fuel station in patrolled space like Argon Prime, the ships will attack your station eventually and it’s not worth the trouble. You may be better off putting a station in a pirate-controlled system when you can afford one.

Sector Trading

Once you’ve got enough money I’d advise you setup a Sector Trader. It’s best to start off a Trader in a Mercury (with upgraded engine and rudder) and set him/her loose in Argon Prime, Ore Belt or Paranid Prime. Once those Trader’s reach a skill of 8 you can upgrade them to Universe Trader’s and they’ll trade throughout the entire universe instead of those single system’s. They will require some shielding, a jump drive and some energy cells before they trade over long distances.

You can now sit back and watch the money roll in, though I’d advise you still manually smuggle Space Fuel with your remote controlled (manual) Mercury…

Killing Missions

I think in Terran Conflict (unlike Reunion), the most profitable type of mission by a very long way are killing missions. These are mission where you are asked to defend something or attack/kill someone. Always save the game by docking just before you accept the mission because sometimes you are not told what ship the opponent is using until after you accept… Sometimes they are simply too difficult and you cannot complete the mission in your current ship. You can make HUGE money though if you find out the weakness of your opponent…

Capturing Ships

As an extension of the killing missions, you can certainly take advantage of any ships you can get hold of, whether it’s through boarding and taking them by force or attacking pirates and hoping they bail out from fear – it’s extremely profitable. One of the things you need to make sure you do is fly towards the ship, exit yours and use your repair laser (available when you’re in your space suit) to fix the ship you have just captured, this increases the value of the ship and means you do not have to pay for it’s repair if you keep it.

Punching above your weight

You can kill ships that you don’t think you can. Look for a weakness and exploit it. As an example a Khaak Frigate cannot fire directly backwards, so simply sit at between 60-90 metres directly behind and gradually work your way through it’s shields and hull! It cannot fire back at you unless you get out of that ’safety box’. There’s a few ships which have this weakness (or one similar).

Another interesting tip is that in order to be paid the credit bonus or get the reputation for killing something, you have to be the one to fire the final shot. If your target is being shot at by a number of other ships you should make sure your lasers are fully charges (giving them a more rapid rate of fire), wait until the ship is almost destroyed and then get as close as you can to them before opening up and firing as much as you can… The more rapidly you are firing the more likely you are to be the one making that final hit.

Accessible Racing VXP Hands-only Wheel Bar Review

Friday, June 5th, 2009

Accessible Racing VXP

When I first heard of a the equipment that the team at Accessible Racing (AR) were building, it took me back to one of the earliest simracing controllers I owned and a race at Monaco in the Papyrus-produced title Grand Prix Legends.

I had my wrist in a cast and at the time drove with a Thrustmaster steering wheel. There were no pedals with the wheel and I used the analogue (controller not only detects input, but how much input) paddles on the back of the wheel for throttle and brake, using buttons on the front to shift gears. I ran that race in a little pain by the end, but after resting my bad wrist onto of the other and basically racing with my arms crossed the whole time, I felt like I had climbed a mountain simply being able to race at all. It was a challenge and I felt I beat it…

For fans of racing that have Spinal Cord Injuries, almost everything they do is a challenge of copious proportions: Race tracks which I have visited (among them Spa-Francorchamps – Belgium, Lime Rock Park – USA) provide very little accessible fan areas for wheelchairs and it is sad to see because if you go to most oval tracks (Pocono – USA, Talladega – USA) or even any other sporting venue (Soldier Field – Chicago, Fenway Park – Boston) it’s very clear to see that they’ve tried hard to not only make the venue accessible to fans; they’ve set aside some very good areas!

Why is it that racing is one of the least friendly sports to these fans? Why is it that even as Alex Zanardi proved that a hand-controlled car can win, we still see so few avenues for disabled (or rather, upper-body able) drivers to get behind the wheel?

Without people like Accessible Racing (who put people in specially modified real racecars), there’s really no way to do this – until now – because Brian Hanaford (who suffered a brain injury at age 18, forcing him to re-learn basic motor skills) and his team at AR have created a new hands-only steering wheel. The wheel closely replicates methods used in some road cars, meaning that not only can some of these fans get on the real track with AR, they can spend time on the virtual one, too.

VXP

Control Method

The new device attachment is basically a bar which extends out from the base of the wheel to the left side. Because of the G-forces involved in racing, your weight (including your arms) are thrown forward under braking, it makes sense to setup the controller so that you push to brake and pull to accelerate so that you are not made to accelerate when you intend to brake. It is possible that some road cars have this setup the opposite way around (manufacturers make the same error with sequential gear shifters, too), but the G-forces experienced on the road do not match those of the race track.

You have the option to push or pull the lever either way, it depends how you set it up inside the software you’re racing with, but push-to-brake, pull to accelerate is more realistic.

Construction

The controller itself seems to be rigid plastic construction. It feels quite solid and I don’t think I’d be too concerned of breakage. It is attached to the bottom of a Logitech Momo and I am told it will not work with any other wheel (though from the attachment type I saw, it should plug into the pedals port on the base of any recent Logitech wheel’s pedal port). The unit is attached to the wheel by its clamp and comes with its own clamp suitable for desks or at-home racing cockpits beneath.

Precise Control

The movement is analogue and allows a varying degree of throttle/brake input. Pushed fully forward you’re at maximum braking and as you pull it back the braking force reduces to nothing, then as you pull past the center the acceleration increases from nothing until you reach the maximum point you can pull the stick back to. The stick does spring back to the middle (where it does not input either throttle or brake) when released.

I am far more precise with my hands than with my feet on pedals and I actually found myself driving in a way which gave the cars greater stability. I felt forced to get all my braking done before I turned and felt more able to make tiny adjustments to the throttle as I rounded the turns… On certain tracks I actually set my best ever lap time using the controller, but I think it’s greatest benefit was with my overall consistency due to that extra bit of fine adjustment from my hands versus my feet on pedals.

Controller Issues

You are limited to turning only 190 degrees left and 80 degrees (with comfort) to the right. You need to have a hand on the throttle/brake at all times and this means you’re unable to cross arms or turn past the location of the bar. Of course if you are only racing on oval tracks, you don’t need to worry about this because the amount of turning lock available is plenty.

The increased height of the wheel with the controller underneath forced me to reduce the height of my steering mount. Not a big deal, but I normally have my wheel mounted fairly high – almost enough to show over the bottom of my screen (where the cockpit wheel shows).

It is quite difficult to shift gears. I wound up using the paddle on the back of the wheel (right side) to shift up and a button on the front of the wheel (right side) to shift down with my thumb.

Working With…

If the wheel being used (the one shipped was a Logitech Momo), has the ability to do so, you should limit its turning to a total of about 180 degrees within the Logitech Profiler software. This is due to the issue mentioned above where you are unable to physically turn right with one arm past about 80 degrees.

Always short-calibrate the controller (don’t push the bar fully to its boundaries when being asked to show software where its limits are). This will give it a little bit of movement that still gives you 100% throttle/brake so you can have an occasional flinch or loss of grip on the bar without losing any input.

Force feedback should be turned either off or very low. The throttle and brake are now attached to the wheel and if you are on the limit, you don’t really want a shock wave to travel through the wheel and force you to apply more throttle than you intended to. I did find myself getting more used to this though and could eventually drive at my regular strength, but I think gradually building that strength may be a good idea.

Conclusion

I can’t help wondering if it wouldn’t be simpler and cheaper just to buy a joystick and have exactly the same effect. The forwards/backwards axis would be calibrated in exactly the same way, while the left/right axis would be ignored by the software…

At this time, the organization sells the product complete with steering wheel, which I believe is probably good for some, but not for all. I would think allowing people to just purchase the unit without steering wheel would be a more profitable way to do things as it also does not restrict the wheel the device can be used with. I certainly think that based upon conversations I have had with iRacing members, this would be a definite requirement for some of them to buy it. It’s also probably a good idea for them to construct a USB compatible standalone device so that they no longer have to rely on having the exact wheel Accessible Racing choose.

Overall this is a good and solid piece of kit that fulfills its promise and hopefully will do so for quite some time. I am delighted that an organization has chosen to create a controller specifically for this purpose. There are others out there (Thrustmaster still offer wheels with analogue paddles behind the wheel) which could be used as a hands-only controller, but the fact that this one is designed around a recognizable method which matches one seen in road cars means that people who will never get to sit in one of Accessible Racing’s adapted cars will still feel right at home infront of their home computer and the iRacing.com simulation.

[review pros="Matches controllers seen in Accessible Racing's race cars.
Almost forces you to drive with good practices.
Well-enough constructed to last a while...
Perfect for oval racing." cons="Would like more choice on wheels.
Cheaper ways to do this.
No USB option.
Won't work so well on a clockwise roadcourse." score=80]

Price: $350 (with racing software $450). Purchase from: Accessible Racing.

Track Scan VIBRAS Five.One 5.1 Channel Surround Sound Headset Review

Monday, May 25th, 2009

If you have watched a NASCAR or Indycar event in the last 10 years, you have probably heard the announcers mention that the crowd have scanners which allow them to listen to the radio communications of their favorite driver. Track Scan are a company which rent or sell those headsets and radios to race fans – and now – they sell Surround Sound headsets of amazing quality which you can use on the XBOX 360 or PC…

Track Scan’s XBOX 360 headset is Microsoft Certified and will only work on the 360. I am reviewing the PC USB headset only, although the 360 version seems to be largely the same.

USB Gaming Headset

Technology & Audio experience

Each side of the headset has four speakers. They are located at various positions which allow the headphones to accurately position audio in a way that almost makes you want to look over your shoulder. I actually think that when playing Call of Duty 4, I can hear people sneaking up behind me.

The sound is crisp and clean and easily covers both the high and low notes of the engines in the iRacing.com Motorsport Simulations software. Again, like with COD4, you can hear the direction of audio around you and there’s been times since using the headphones that I have not looked in the mirror and still known the location of other cars by their engine noises.

With my work at iRacing, I have obviously heard the software audio coming out of a lot of different speakers and soundcard combinations and it is with utter delight than I can say the VIBRAS Five.One headset matches the very best of them. Infact, I have heard so much variation of sound quality from most hardware – I wonder how many people have no idea how good our simulation can sound!

It isn’t just in games or simulations that the VIBRAS Five.One shines: The 5.1 Dolby Digital sound available when watching DVD movies is also a great way to give yourself the movie-goer experience… Movies are so much better when you’re not listening to Stereo!

VoIP? Skype? Voice Chat? Yes, yes and yes

The headset and it’s detachable microphone work perfectly with any voice communication program I have tried. The only complications are with Windows and it’s soundcard management – which is why I now have the on-board soundcard permanently disabled. (Windows would try to choose the active microphone from whichever soundcard it wanted, rather than the one I actually needed).

Construction quality

I don’t see there being any physical breakage to this product when it is used properly. The over-head loop is very strong, solid plastic, the microphone is an adjustable solid attachment and the USB control box had managed to withstand my weight a couple of times as I climbed out of the at-home cockpit and accidentally stood on it!

Benefits of headphones

Even when using an ordinary set of headphones, I feel much more immersed. Not only does it allow me to hear the audio much more clearly, it also blocks out all those noises which are waiting to distract me. We have two young cats here and I don’t want to be hearing them run around while I am trying to run a consistent race or keep my concentration in battle, for example.

The additional benefits of headphones are obvious… My wife no longer has to leave the room whenever I’m using the PC!

Conclusions

Even if you have an extremely expensive set of 5.1 Dolby speakers hooked up to your very-expensive PC soundcard, I think you should sell them and buy this headset or one like it. I cannot repeat enough times how much more I feel this quality of headset has given me.

[review pros="Windows XP/Vista Compatible.
Comfortable adjustable headband.
Can easily detach/adjust microphone.
Bundled CyberLink PowerDVD software.
No need for a soundcard.
Adjustable settings in control panel.
5.1 Dolby Surround - excellent experience." cons="Would like to see drivers for other Operating Systems.
Price is a little higher than I would expect.
 
 
 
 
 
" score=95]

Price: $159.99 – www.track-scan.com

Requirements
USB 2.0 Port
CD/DVD Drive (for installation)
Windows XP or Vista

Directional Speakers Detachable Microphone

Strong Headband USB Attachment

Control Panel

Control Panel

I think sim racing just saved me in an accident…

Monday, March 9th, 2009

First, let me set the scene: It’s about 5:50am, still dark, it has been raining all night and as I was warming the car up at 5:20am, it had turned to snow. I have just dropped my wife off in Boston and I am on 93 North, in the fast (left) lane going about 50mph, keeping a safe distance behind the guy infront and just following his lights. We’re about 2mins outside of Boston and there’s trucks in both of the right lanes who’re kicking up a lot of spray, the 3rd lane is empty and I’m in that 4th lane just staying out of the truck spray…

[googlemap lat="42.384311" lng="-71.076454" yaw="343.74193548387154" pitch="4.27419354838711" zoom="0" width="508px" height="150px" type="STREETVIEW"]Boston, MA[/googlemap]

As we reach the brow of a hill (where we’re blind as to what is ahead) I notice the SUV infront slam it’s brakes and then slam into two other vehicles, stopping almost immediately and blocking the 3rd and 4th lanes. I have a timed distance of probably about 5-seconds to react; I touch the brakes while I checked I am clear and swing over into the 2nd lane behind the truck, lift off gently and then merge back to the 3rd lane once clear of the accident.

On the rest of the drive I replayed the incident in my head a few times and felt that everything I did, I did right. I have a tendency not to want to run side by side with others (this allowed the lane next to me to be empty and is definitely something I have learned from sim racing – don’t be side by side if you don’t have to be), I didn’t slam on the brakes like the car infront (which would have instantly made me lose control of the car in those conditions), and I didn’t put too much steering into the car (which would have caused me to lose control). But most importantly, I didn’t panic, I felt I had seen it all before.

When I thought about that further, it made sense. Although I make my fair share of mistakes in racing sims, most of the situations I see are ones where someone else has lost control or made contact with another car; my job at that point is to avoid them – which I am able to most of the time. Today was a prime example of not only how simulations can help you with car control and learning the car and race track characteristics, but also how they can train your brain to make the right decision. This isn’t a new concept, flight simulations are used for this very thing and allow airline pilots to make the miraculous decisions that they do at times which save lives, but it was interesting for me to see this happening for me, with racing sims.

It also reminded me of the iRacing work outing at Lime Rock Park in 2006. It was horribly wet and we were out there in open-wheel Skip Barber 2000’s. Although I had never had to put opposite lock into any car in my life up until that point, my brain had been trained from years of simulations to make the right instinctive move with the steering when needed, as shown in this video:


HD available.

Here are some videos of reactions in simulations to crashes ahead that I have managed to capture. This one from Grand Prix Legends is over 10 years old now, but shows great avoidance within the limits of the simulation:

A more recent avoidance, with iRacing, shows me managing to get slowed up in time to avoid incidents in both of these Late Model races:


HD available.
View on iRacing World.


HD available.
View on iRacing World.

Tips to a better quality screenshot/video with iRacing

Friday, January 30th, 2009
Chevy Impala (Mine is on the inside).

Chevy Impala (Mine is on the inside).

I’ve never really had top of the line equipment with my simracing, so I have managed to pick up a few tricks and now that replays are enabled within iRacing, I’m going to start using them again.

Basically, when all the software has to do is display the replay, there’s a lot of CPU, RAM and maybe a little Graphics Processor left over. Why are they left over? Well, because you’re not driving while watching that replay! So, simply turn up your graphics settings, open the replay and enjoy superb graphics your machine can normally only dream of during races… When you’re done with the glorious effects, switch them back!

Here’s the basic instructions:

1. Save your replay (preferably a cut segment of it so it’s easier to find what you want to capture).
2. Make a note of all the settings you currently have on your graphics page. If you have never altered the graphics settings before, then you’re using the defaults, just make note of that instead and follow the applicable instruction later.
3. Turn all the graphics to the maximum, but do not touch the memory slider in the center. You may also increase the resolution (as long as it is supported by your display) to a much higher one than you would normally be able to race with.
4. Exit the sim.
5. Go to the replays page and load the replay.
6. You should now have a viewable replay in high graphical settings. Take your screenshots, capture your videos…
7. When finished, exit the sim/replay viewer.
8a. If you were using the default graphics settings simply open the Instruction section of the members site, click Quick Start Guide, then select Configuring Your Hardware on the left side. Select Auto Configure and your settings are now back where they were.
8b: If you had configured your own graphics settings before this, simply open a test session and set all the graphics setting back to how you noted them, then quit the sim.
9. Open a test session to confirm everything looks as normal.

Note: Some hardware may not support maximum graphics. If the sim fails to load, go to #8a above (or click here) and follow instructions to reset your graphics settings. If the replay itself fails to load, then it is too large: Lower your graphics settings, load the replay, then cut it into sections.

The only real limiting factor for this whole thing, is texture memory. My graphics card has quite a lot of memory, so can show some really nice textures, yours may not, so things might not look quite so sharp. This is why you shouldn’t really fool around with what the default iRacing setting is for video memory because really your card has, what it has.

If any of you still run NASCAR Racing 2003 Season or Grand Prix Legends, both made by the same people behind iRacing, you can do similar to this with those simulations also.

Obutto oZone Racing Cockpit Review

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009
Obutto oZone Cockpit - Pictured with Logitech G25

Obutto oZone Cockpit - Pictured with Logitech G25

Over the holidays, my wife and I went to stay with my parents in England, it was the first time my parents had met her and of course it wasn’t long before they broke out the home movies. My wife only really understood what racing simulations have meant to me when she saw me in those movies, at aged 14, sat infront of a computer with a steering wheel in my hands.

In December, 2008, I moved with my wife from Chicago, Illinois to Woburn, Massachusetts. I moved for work, for iRacing, to continue a dream that I have been living ever since racing simulations first entered my life. In a tangent, Chris Dunagan – Managing Director of Obutto – moved to Beijing in his attempt to make a go of his racing cockpit and it’s thanks to him that when I started work after the holidays, a half built Obutto oZone Racing Cockpit was here waiting for me to test.

Construction

The cockpit couldn’t really be much easier to build. The individual pieces are light and easy to handle with only the seat being bulky enough to give me difficulty. When I got the cockpit, it had been half built and stood awaiting completion; I took it apart and took it home so I could do it justice. Dismantling was easy and when home, so was the rebuild; I put the cockpit together using a photo of the cockpit from the Obutto Web site after finding I’d left instructions at work.

Parts are minimal: You have two large pieces for the base which attach to each other, you bolt the seat to the rear piece and the adjustable monitor and wheel stands drop into the front piece. There’s also a large keyboard/mouse shelf, a shifter platform which can be dropped into the rear base piece on either side of your seat, and a sloping shelf for the pedals which just slots over the front half of the base.

I fit right where medical science says I should when it comes to body weight, but I fully expected before seeing the cockpit that in my review I was going to have to say bad things about the strength of the cockpit. Luckily, I don’t have to say that because the Obutto cockpit is plenty strong enough for me and I would think anyone else who can comfortably sit in it. Its Carbon Steel construction seems extremely sturdy and frankly, I can’t give the frame and its support enough compliments.

Features: Seat

I find the Obutto seat very comfortable and supportive. So much so that I would like to throw out my computer desk and write all emails, race all simulations and play all games from the cockpit.

The seat is a car sports seat which can recline and also slide backwards and forwards on top of the rear half of the frame, it is well padded and I believe that when using this cockpit my back is in the best position I’ve ever had it when running a simulation. I achieved this comfortable position using the following notes from the Obutto Web site:

1. Steering Wheel Height: The height of the center of the steering wheel is near the height of your collarbone.

2. Distance to Steering Wheel: The easiest way to set achieve the ideal distance from your steering wheel is to adjust your seat so that when you stretch your arms straight out your wrists lie across the top of the steering wheel. Make sure your shoulders are touching the back of the seat.

Once you place your hands in the 10 & 2 or 9 & 3 positions on the wheel your elbows will be bent at an approximate 90 degrees.

3. Distance to pedals: The ideal position varies but it’s best to not be too close to where your legs are cramped and not too far so that you can’t push the pedals without stretching your legs.

My only concern with the seat is that when I push down on the edge of the seat to stand up, I am afraid I am going to break it. The first night I had the cockpit I felt movement within the padding on the sides, so from that moment on I got in and out while putting my weight on the shifter platform instead. Better safe than sorry!

Features: Shifter platform and keyboard/mouse shelf

The shifter platform seems to be designed around the Logitech G25 shifter (it is perfectly sized), but is officially compatible with Saitek and ECCI also. Obutto do say on their Web site that the platform will fit other shifters, but they do not specify which. I would think it capable of fitting most though, it is a flat platform with no lips on the edges, so if your clamp is too wide you could always clamp the platform with a piece of wood cut to size.

The platform can also be swung out like a door or inwards almost over your knees, it is fully adjustable and can be clamped in position. Another nice thing is that it can be mounted on either the left or the right.

Shifter platform size: 6¾” x 6″ or 17cm x 15cm.

They did a fantastic job fitting this enormous keyboard and mouse shelf into the compact design of this cockpit. There is enough room on this thing for my cell phone, a drink, my keyboard and my trackball mouse. There’s even room for the various cat toys that I keep by me while I race so that I can distract the kittens if they start to mess with me while I am racing.

As mentioned above, the keyboard/mouse shelf can be placed on either side of the cockpit, but whichever side the shelf is, the shifter platform must be opposite.

Obutto oZone Cockpit - Pictured with Logitech G25

Obutto oZone Cockpit - Pictured with Logitech G25

Features: Wheel platform

Herein lays my only problem faced with the cockpit. I use a Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel at the moment and found that because there is a little lip on the underside of the platform; my clamp cannot close enough to lock itself to the platform. I got around the problem by initially stuffing junk mail between the bottom of the platform and the top of the clamp, giving the platform extra thickness.

Other than that problem (which is as much of a Fanatec problem with their clamp design as it is a problem with the cockpit), I’m thrilled at how adjustable and stable the wheel platform is. You simply undo the tightening clamps and then you can slide the platform up and towards or down and away.

Features: Monitor platform

Behind the wheel platform, sits the monitor platform. Once setup and tightened, the monitor platform is not going to move anywhere. It is extremely strong and its position right behind the wheel is just perfect. I am using a single-screen display and feel totally immersed when driving.

A nice feature is that the Obutto oZone cockpit is so compact that I could easily remove the monitor display (or just lower to minimum height) and the front end of the cockpit would slide perfectly under my desk, allowing me to setup a triple display or huge HDTV on there at exactly the right height.

Good Vibrations

One thing that you may like or dislike is the way the force feedback effects travel through the framing. I am able to feel a lot of the effects produced by the wheel under my seat and through the pedals. The downside, of course, is the vibration itself: If you live in a shared building, with thin walls and floors, you might need to place the cockpit on a bit of extra carpeting.

Personally I find this extra vibration adds even more to the immersive experience a sim racing cockpit can give you. Being able to feel any kind of jolt not only in your hands and arms but under the seat and with your feet is an extremely interesting experience that definitely adds to my awareness.

Stability

I have tried to tip the cockpit over and unless you purposely lift it with the aim of doing so, it won’t even move. The floor design is such that the pivot point for a heavy display is quite far inwards. I would avoid putting something extremely heavy onto the display stand and instead use the oZone’s compact nature to your advantage by sliding it underneath or near to some other TV/monitor stand. Any normal monitor of relatively light HDTV should be fine.

Conclusions: Bad

I think for business use at tradeshows or an event, the Obutto is probably not suitable. Although it is a very sturdy and well-built cockpit, its adjustable nature doesn’t have the right look or feel for putting on a show.

One thing that is lacking is some kind of attachments for audio. This is an understandable omission though because audio equipment varies greatly in design.

Conclusions: Good

An awesome option for home use.

It is more than worth the price and I have seen comparable cockpits selling for hundreds, even thousands of dollars more.

It has a compact design, yet when you are sat it seems surprisingly large.

It’s adjustability and extendibility is simply amazing. Each extended item like the platforms can be moved and placed wherever you want them. Each adjustment is shockingly simple to perform.

Sturdy frame that can support anyone who can comfortably sit inside. (I’m told 300lbs guys buy and use them).

Large extended items. The keyboard/mouse shelf will have a wide variety of uses because of its size. Now you don’t even need to leave your cockpit to eat your Dinner!

One of the real delights is that with the force feedback enabled, I can feel it travelling throughout the frame, giving me an extra sense of immersion.

The racing seat, with its adjustable forward and backward positioning, is extremely comfortable and supportive.

Link: obutto.com – Price: $259 (Excluding Shipping)

Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Steering Wheel Review

Saturday, September 6th, 2008
Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel, Pedals & H-pattern gear shifter.

Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel, Pedals & H-pattern gear shifter.

I was sent the Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel for review having not heard much about it, other than what I’d read on a few simracing Web sites, of course. I knew the build quality would be good and that I’d be overcome with new things to get used to, but really I had no idea what an ‘awakening’ I was set to experience with the first truly spectacular wheel I have ever owned.

I did have a lot of things to get used to with this wheel. Firstly, I had to adapt to 900° of rotation from the wheel. Both wheels I have owned recently hit a physical stopper at around 90° each side and totaled out at 180°. Second, I had to adapt myself to use a more realistically stiff ‘racing style’ brake pedal. Third, the big one, I had to adapt to use the clutch… I’ve never had a three pedal set before and have hardly ever driven on normal roads… Lastly, I haven’t used any force feedback since about 2000… I would have very many bad habits from years of simracing and this wheel was going to rip them right out of me…

Upon reading the wheel specifications, one thing stood out for me as an area of concern: Wireless. This steering wheel features no cable between wheel and PC and this worried me for a couple of reasons: Would the latency of the wheel be fast enough for my steering commands to be instantly delivered to the simulation on the screen? Would interference from the ‘wireless world’ be a problem?

For the PC I think that the wireless option isn’t really too much of a bonus, I have cables going from every device except my mouse to my PC. But, for the Playstation 2 and 3, wireless is an obvious requirement: You can be sat on your couch as far away from the TV and Playstation as you need to be and not worry about someone tripping over controller wires.

I was quite worried though that someone next door might turn on their microwave and cause me to crash in-sim when the wireless lost connection (yes I’m joking with the microwave, but this genuinely concerned me)…

My concerns turned out to be absolutely wrong as I found there to be no issues with the connection and absolutely no problem with controller lag.

INSTALLATION

Please note that I suffered problems during installation. I had read in other reviews that there are some problems on installation of the wheel… I wanted to prove that everything worked perfect when you followed instructions but I found that even following the instructions turned out to be difficult… I have since contacted Fanatec about it and they told me they have a totally different procedure for installation now which matches the conclusions I drew myself during my own struggles:

1. Fully build and mount wheel and pedals.
2. Do not use the automatic updater on the USB stick.
3. Download the latest driver manually on the Fanatec website.
4. Plug in the RF dongle before you install the driver.
5. Run Setup.exe from your manual download.
6. Calibrate the controller.

I spent nearly 1½ hours trying to figure things out the way the manual I received was telling me to. I eventually gave up and did it my own way (shown above).

FIRST USE

I went into the Control Panel > Game Controllers and calibrated the wheel next. This was a simple process, but I was concerned to see a lack of Force Feedback preferences available… I set the wheel to a 0% dampening strength, 900 degrees of rotation and loaded up iRacing to take the Skip Barber 2000 for a spin…

Quite a lack of config options...

Unfortunately, spin was a bad choice of word: I have been so used to using a wheel with about 180° of rotation that I wasn’t moving the wheel nearly enough to catch the little slides and wobbles that the car does, especially at a track like Lime Rock Park… I asked on the iRacing member forum for help and someone thankfully told me they had experienced the same thing. I went back to the control panel and temporarily set the 911 Wheel to (it’s minimum) 200° of rotation, finding that I could then drive perfectly I knew it wasn’t a problem with the wheel, it was a problem with me.

Note: If you wind up purchasing this wheel, be aware how different it is to almost every other wheel on the market. If you haven’t experienced huge amount of wheel rotation or stiff brake pedal like this before you might find it quite hard to adapt at first – be patient. It’s taken me about four days to re-claim by pace and consistency.

BUILD FEATURES

The power supply for the wheel is nice and long. It’s the little things like this that make life easier and I was delighted to see that where this wheel needed cables, it provided cables long enough to not make life difficult.

The pedals for this wheel are one of the biggest features of it and actually a major step forward in terms of realism. I have driven the Skip Barber 2000 in real life and the brake pedal for the 911 Wheel is getting pretty close to reality in terms of stiffness. It isn’t quite as hard to push down the 911 Wheel’s brake as it is most race cars, but it’s close enough, for sure. The pedals can be either wireless (with the use of four batteries – supplied by Fanatec), or they can be wired. It would also be nice for the pedals to be made of metal… They are currently plastic and while they both look and feel solid, my clutch pedal has started making a noise when fully pushed after just a couple of weeks, though this has not affected performance.

The 911 Wheel\'s pedals, solid, with a stiff and more realistic brake pedal.

The 911 Wheel's pedals. Solid, with a stiff and more realistic brake pedal.

The fixings and clamps for the 911 Wheel are strong and tight, I haven’t experienced any slippage. Like most wheels though the desk clamps don’t reach far enough under my desk to get past the ‘lip’ my desk has, but this doesn’t seem unusual. Like with other wheels I have had to clamp the wheel to the lip itself.

The wheel also comes with a set of ‘knee fixings’ which should allow you to use the wheel on your legs… I have not tested this as I can’t imagine being able to keep it on my legs while force feedback is active. This feature is undoubtedly useful for the Playstation 2 and 3 users.

The desk clamp and leg fixings for the under-side of the wheel.

The desk clamp and leg fixings for the under-side of the wheel.

Having a choice of gear selection sticks is a major reason to buy this wheel. Not only is there a set of buttons behind the wheel (which simulate the paddles most open-wheel race cars have), there is a sequential gearbox (forward and backwards to shift gear) and H-pattern shifter that will sit at the side of your wheel (on the end of poles clamped inside the wheel housing). The gear sticks are very strong and feel they’ll take a lot of racing, the method of housing them (on the poles) also feels strong and sturdy.

Dual metal poles go through the wheel body and the (changable) gear stick.

Dual metal poles go through the wheel body and the (changeable) gear stick.

The steering wheel itself is based upon the real Porsche 911 steering wheel. It feels so wonderful when driving! Being able to slip your fingers around a stitched leather steering wheel is an absolute privilege. It is perfect thickness, the construction feels solid and the amount of available buttons means you can control everything you need to control. I haven’t found anything to use the buttons on the front of the wheel for yet, but the ‘paddle’ buttons on the back of the wheel are in use whenever I drive the Formula Mazda! The front of the wheel also includes a very cool illuminated LED display that I assumed can be configured to work with software and display output of speed or shifting indications. I’ve personally turned it off (via the control panel shown above in this article) because, like I said, I don’t use any of the front buttons.

Note: Fanatec say that they are about to release a driver update that brings information from the game or sim out to the LED display.

The Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel provides the perfect look and feel.

The Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel provides the perfect look and feel.

FORCE FEEDBACK CAPABILITY

Until very recently I used a Thrustmaster steering wheel, I also hadn’t bothered with Force Feedback since the year 2000. I got a Logitech Driving Force EX and tried it’s Force Feedback – I wasn’t impressed enough to continue using it.

The Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo steering wheel is a totally different animal. I am now hooked on Force Feedback and can say with absolute joy that the experience this wheel is capable of delivering converted me to a fan of Force Feedback in general.

With a setting (within the iRacing simulation) of between 8 and 10 in strength, the feel this wheel gives is simply amazing. I can feel the changes in camber of the turn, levels of banking and occasionally can feel the tiny transition from one type of surface to another very, very well. That feel, combined with a higher degree of rotation in the wheel, is making me a much smoother driver and I’m finding myself able to tame circuits I have struggled at quite badly over the last couple of years.

To sum up: 911 Wheel Force Feedback = YES!!

NOISE

I actually don’t remember hearing the motor of the force feedback, ever. It is far quieter than any wheel I have ever owned, have seen on show displays or have seen in friend’s homes.

When you run a long session with Force Feedback the unit gets warm and there are fans that will run until the unit cools off. They’re not loud, but I did wonder what on earth the noise was the first time I heard them!

The body of the wheel has airflow grills above the fans.

The body of the wheel has airflow grills above the fans.

PROS

Fantastic build quality. Feels solid.

Looks the part. Porsche-branded and cool looking. Nice leather finish.

Sequential and H-pattern gear shifters are provided and easily swapped.

900° of rotation, the same as many road cars (and the Pontiac Solstice featured in iRacing).

Wonderful Force Feedback capabilities that allow you to really feel things at a whole new level.

Stiff brake pedal that is much closer to the resistance of the real thing. It isn’t exact though, from my experience it feels about 50% as rigid as a real-life racing brake pedal (but that’s better than the 0% resistance most pedals offer).

Clutch pedal. Not every set of wheel and pedals has a clutch… Although it can be quite difficult to perfect, it might be worth it in the long run.

Non-slip pedals. When I say non-slip, I mean it. If you fix the metal plate to the bottom of the plastic pedals like you’re supposed to, these pedals aren’t slipping anywhere…

Haven’t had to recalibrate the wheel since I had it. Normally I had to recalibrate Thrustmaster and Logitech wheels before every running as they would both lose ‘center’ – I’d find myself having to turn the wheel to go straight. No sign of this issue with the 911 Wheel.

Wireless pedal to wheel communication. (Batteries in the wheels provide wireless communication, cable is provided if unwanted).

A choice to use a cable for pedal to wheel communication, rather than wireless (useful if those batteries die).

Wireless connection between wheel and PC/PS2/PS3.

Compatibility with PC, Playstation 2 and 3.

CONS

The installation from the USB stick of the USB wireless hub. Bad drivers/software… Fanatec are aware of this issue though and confirmed my installation method (above) works.

ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT

Working instructions need to be shipped with these wheels.

The clamp could do with being a bit longer. It’s wide enough for any desk but doesn’t get over the ‘lip’ on the edge of mine so I’m attaching it to the edging, rather that the desk – it doesn’t feel safe like that. Fanatec do have a solution though, they have a different clamp you can buy

Clutch pedal has started to make plastic ‘tapping’ noise (after two weeks) when pressed fully. Still works perfectly though, I guess a part is hitting the casing.

CONCLUSION

My concerns over the wireless being interfered with or laggy seems to be misplaced and although the installation was a bit of a pain, it hasn’t caused me any further stress. The lack of configuration options in the control panel was a concern, but after using the wheel for some time now – I haven’t needed to change anything outside the game or simulation’s own settings. Amazingly, I haven’t even needed to recalibrate the wheel at any time!

At the moment, all in all, the Fanatec Porsche 911 Turbo Wheel is probably one of the best pieces of equipment you can buy in terms of quality, feel and performance. It is genuinely making me a much better simracer and that’s only after weeks of usage… In terms of pricing, it is a lot of money, but I honestly think it’s worth every cent if you want one of the best wheels available today.

Buy from: fanatec.de. Wheel is for PC and PS3 (PS3 untested by me).
Price: $200 (approx).

Note: The wheel comes with a 1GB memory stick (that looks the same as the USB hub). This stick contains the PC drivers but you can use it like any other memory stick. I’d advise against using the drivers on the stick and instead suggest downloading the latest ones from Fanatec manually.

Logitech Driving Force EX Steering Wheel Review

Wednesday, August 20th, 2008

Yes, that’s right! Finally… Tim Wheatley got rid of that dodgy $30 Thrustmaster wheel… I loved the old girl but, she had too many problems. She lagged, spiked, did all sorts of wonderful things… She made it very difficult to drive in a straight line though and after all this time… I moved on.

The Logitech Driving Force EX steering wheel that I was given, I should point out, is labeled on the box as a Playstation wheel. It doesn’t come with anything saying that it works on the PC, nor does it come with a drivers CD for the PC, but, you can simply go to Logitech.com and there they are, bright as day. Drivers are (currently) there for both Windows XP and Windows Vista.

CABLES, PLUGS & SETTING UP

The box contained wheel, pedals and power supply unit. I don’t have a Playstation, but reading the documentation that came with the wheel, my version should work with both the PS2 and PS3. It comes with a USB connector and (what I’d refer to as) a ‘gamepad’ connector. Obviously in this review I’m talking about the PC, so you would use the USB connector. The first thing I noticed when unwrapping was how wonderfully long they made the wires! No longer am I going to have to use the front USB connector on my computer case for my steering wheel! Not only that, but the wire between the pedals and steering wheel is similarly well-endowed, as is the power unit.

I attached the pedals to the wheel, plugged in the power (at both ends) and then mounted the wheel on my desk. Running the driver EXE I had downloaded from the Logitech Web site I waited until I was told to plug the wheel into the computer and then did do. Following the onscreen instructions made it very easy and after a quick run through the calibration I was ready to race… It hadn’t taken longer than three minutes.

I now took a quick look at the unit in it’s new home and tried to find faults. I must admit, I found it hard to pick faults on how the wheel looks. Apart from the obvious Playstation-related buttons, which don’t bother me, the wheel both looked and felt sturdy, professional and like it could take a race or two! I certainly didn’t feel like the thing would fall apart anytime soon.

I guess my only real issue is with the clamps. They don’t reach forward enough for me and I’m sort of concerned they’ll work their way loose as they’re clamped onto the lip of my desk, rather than just past that lip – where I would prefer. I guess this isn’t a big deal, I’ll just have to keep checking the tightness every week or so.

FORCE FEEDBACK & NOISE

Compared to many other wheels I have heard with motors, the Driving Force EX doesn’t make much noise at all, but that’s because it doesn’t have a motor.

I don’t normally use force feedback, so although I’m trying it with this wheel, your mileage may differ. Any review of force feedback is heavily reliant on the game or simulation used to test it anyway…

Trying the wheel with Richard Burns Rally I mainly found myself feeling tightening of the steering, there wasn’t really any notification when you’d landed after a jump. It seemed like the force feedback was only simulating the feedback of the steering column and ignoring any vibration or ‘jolts’ that I believed I should be feeling. It felt weird more than anything else.

Trying the same general settings with Flatout: Ultimate Carnage I felt the tightening of steering in the turns, but also felt a ‘jolt’ during sideward impact (from other cars, or the armco). I also felt the car becoming ‘light’ while in the air. Again, this force feedback was missing any sudden jolt’s you would expect when getting front or rear impact but did seem better than Richard Burns Rally. Annoyingly, Flatout 3 gave a constant rumble of vibration… I can only assume this is meant to simulate the engine? Whatever it is… It doesn’t work for me, it feels silly.

One thing I have discovered though is just how vast the difference is between software. Interestingly the force feedback in Richard Burns Rally doesn’t seem as good as that seen in the new Flatout title, they are a world apart!

The lightening I can feel from the car in the air or transitions in banking is probably me interpreting the annoying vibrations as something they are not. Really this wheel does not have force feedback, it has rumble feedback and honestly, it feels pretty weird to me.

GENERAL DRIVING

So, turning the force feedback off as I will normally be using it, how does it feel?

It feels great. You can’t feel any ‘workings’ in the wheel, it’s nice and smooth, but there is a bit of a problem (and maybe it’s just me)… When going down the straight I find my steering oscillating left and right… I actually ended up setting the wheel to pull back to the center with a strength of 30% – this made keeping it straight a lot easier. I’m thinking that the wheel is probably just a tiny bit too precise compared to what I’ve been using; my tiny compensations in steering didn’t help keep it straight.

FINAL THOUGHTS

It’s a very, very nice wheel and well worth the current purchase price (about $80 right now on Amazon.com, $55 on Amazon.co.uk). It’s probably the best feeling wheel I have ever had (so far anyway!) If you can’t afford the Logitech G25 and don’t want to go for the cheaper or unknown options, this is a great wheel.

LATER NOTES

It’s now a long time since I wrote this review and I have learned a couple of things further about this wheel.

First, this wheel doesn’t have actual force feedback. Apparently Logitech failed to get proper licensing to include it and instead included a basic ‘rumble’ technology which frankly is pathetic when compared to how a decent wheel feels.

Second, it seems to suffer from the ‘loss of center’ problem I hear a lot when reading about Logitech wheels. You’ll suddenly find yourself having to steer left or right in order to go straight. Some people think this is related to force feedback or the center spring but it actually doesn’t seem to be as I always had both of these disabled with the Force EX…

Ironman (2008) Review

Friday, May 9th, 2008

I was so surprised by this movie. As someone who hadn’t read the comic books and had no idea who, or what Ironman was, I expected an action-packed movie with a mediocre storyline that would be worth seeing, but nothing more… How wrong I was.

Ironman is an excellent movie, it does lack action sequences (I expected to see a lot more fighting from the robot), but actually I have to say, you don’t notice they aren’t there… The movie stands up with a strong storyline, superb dialogue and most surprisingly, perhaps, an actor absolutely perfect for the role of Ironman.

Tony Stark is the head (and genius) of a weapons manufacturer, he is proud of what he does and doesn’t seem to care about the destruction he causes. This character is oddly accepted in the real-world also and this is one of the many messages this movie seems to be trying to send to it’s audience.

When in Afghanistan on a weapons demonstration exercise, Tony Stark is taken captive by a group of ‘rebels’ located in the mountain ranges it is thought are occupied by Bin Laden in real-life. The weapons used to attack the military convoy he is in – are his own weapons. They are holding him and expect him to build one of the missiles the rebels witnessed being demonstrated. Stark decides that he should instead build a weapon that will allow him to escape. He builds “Ironman.”

After a very cool escape from the cave he was held in, Stark returns to America and decides to shut down weapon production until it can be better traced where his weapons are going… He then becomes obsessed with developing and perfecting his Ironman prototype and with his new found ‘good heart’, he begins to try to rid the world of the weapons he sold to what he believes is the wrong side…

Go out and see this movie! The storyline is excellent, the special effects are very good and although there are a lack of action scenes, it doesn’t feel like it. The perfect actor was cast for the role of Ironman and his delivery of some extremely witty dialogue is worth the price of admission alone…

Best Cat or Kitten Toys – Advice on Play and Training

Wednesday, April 9th, 2008

I think people spend way too much money on toys for their adult Cat or new Kitten. Cats are a breed that spend their time either running around crazily attacking everything, eating, pooping or (this is the big one), sleeping. The main toy a Cat or Kitten seems to need, is either another Cat or Kitten, but there are a lot of really simple toys you can provide a Cat or Kitten to keep them occupied and happy. More about toys later, let’s talk about Kitten and Cat behavior first…

If the Kitten is taken away from it’s siblings before 13 weeks, it may be too early for it to have learned how not to hurt when it plays. Other Kittens it may play with will yelp and scream, teaching the aggressive Kitten when to let go.

It is very important that you realize that when you’re playing with a Kitten, you teach it how it’s supposed to play as an adult.

If you allow the Kitten to attack your hands or feet (because when it’s Kitten, it doesn’t hurt much), don’t be surprised if every time you have visitors you have to lock the adult Cat in another room. Your adult Cat will think it’s OK to sink it’s (now painful) claws or teeth into your visitors because you taught it so as a Kitten.

Also, no, it isn’t OK to do it with gloves on, to dangle clothes for your kitten to climb up, etc. Think what damage your Kitten will be able to do when fully grown or if the Kitten chooses to climb up that expensive dress in the wardrobe when you’re not looking!

Your Kitten will recognize very quickly what is a toy, what it can touch, what it’s OK to bite or claw on, but only if you remain consistent in your actions and teaching. There are various methods of training via rewards and punishment, but from personal experience I have found the following to be true…

Cats don’t really seem to bothered about treats or positive attention (totally the opposite of my experience with Dogs). They will come to you for a stroke or to sleep on your knee when they feel like it! You really will have difficulty forcing them to do anything that they don’t want to do.

In order to train a Kitten I’ve found a need to develop a few levels of disciplinary action and I’ve already (with an approximately 16-week old Kitten) seen very positive results. Remember, all the punishments must be done while the Kitten is doing the bad activity. If you miss it (while trying to find your water sprayer or something), let it go, get the Kitten next time. Those levels of punishment are…

1. Moving the Kitten away from the problem. If the Kitten is doing something you don’t want it to, pick it up and move it away. If the Kitten returns to the activity, pick it up and move it away again. If you do it enough times, the Kitten will learn. I would advise you do not pick up the Kitten and present it with another toy to ‘take it’s mind off the problem’ – this could confuse the Kitten as it may see the toy as a reward.

2. Hiss whenever the Kitten does the activity. The Hiss is a form of warning and initially your hiss may be followed by the Kitten hissing back at you – this is OK. You are not attacking the Kitten, you are ‘protecting’ whatever the Kitten was chewing/clawing on like you would if you were a Cat and the Kitten were attacking you. You don’t even need to move when you hiss at the Kitten – as long as you’re sure you’ll be heard.

3. Hiss and push the Kitten away from the activity. This helps the Kitten to associate the hiss with contact – showing it there might actually be something to be scared of. Additionally it incorporates the benefits of all those in punishment #1 above. Adding hissing from close range will have a good effect on the Kitten – expect to get hissed back at, when this happens, stand your ground and the Kitten should move off to do something else. Again, do not present the Kitten with something else to do, let it make it’s own mind up. Also, don’t be too afraid of hurting the Kitten if you’re shoving it away from something, a couple of Kittens playing and fighting really shows how much physical punishment they can take!

4. Spray the Kitten with water. Cats do not like water too much and your objective when spraying the Kitten is for it to have a bad memory. If it returns to the activity and you are consistent and spray it again, it will associate the bad memory of being wet with the activity it was doing. Do not chase the Kitten around with the spray bottle once it has moved away. Also when the Kitten has stopped doing bad things, wait five minutes then cuddle the kitten up in a towel to dry it off (or allow the other Kittens or Cats you might have to lick the wetness off the fur).

5. Spray the Kitten with water – and hiss. This helps to associate the punishment with the bad activity better.

To give an example, our Kitten likes to sleep on my knee while I work during the day. When she first came she would literally dig her claws into my clothes (and skin) on my legs and climb up. I reacted by hissing at her and staring at her – nothing else – she would retract her claws and drop in stunned silence. She would then walk away for a moment, come back and as she stood on my foot (probably about to climb again) I picked her up and put her on my knee – over and over again. When I didn’t notice her down there and she climbed up, I hissed again. She now walks up to my leg and taps me on the leg with her paw when she wants up. If you’re going to do this though, make sure you get the timing right! You don’t want to be hissing at your Cat for actually being sat on your knee – so catch them at the right spot (dangling from your flesh!)

Cat Toys

Like I said earlier, people spend way too much money on toys for their pets. I work from home in the same room where the Kitten spends 99.9% of her time, I see everything she plays with, here’s a rough percentage breakdown of the time our kitten has spent with various toys…

80% of the time – fighting with adult Cat (the Kitten always starts it).

I think it’s very important that any Cat has another Cat around, because although they are not really sociable animals, they do seem to get lonely. The Kitten and Cat do an awful lot of fighting and if you’re introducing two cats who’re either not from the same litter, or greatly differ in age, you have to be really careful… A Kitten’s only defense is a hiss and if an adult Cat wanted to kill the Kitten, it could, easily. Seek help if you’re doing this, because we were lucky to have a very placid adult Cat that always lets go if the Kitten yelps.

15% of the time – running around in “stalk mode”, not playing with any toy.

Our Kitten loves it when the door is open so she can run down the hall. She sounds like a horse and she runs back and forth for a long time before getting tired and having a nap to get ready for the next time! When the door is closed she runs about climbing and jumping onto the off the Kitty Condo we have, jumping onto and off the bed and just generally stalking/hunting nothing in particular!

2% of the time – playing in empty boxes.

The holes in the side of Coca-Cola boxes and the noise they make when you tap on them seems to really excite a Kitten who happens to be sitting inside it, our Kitten just loves jumping ontop of the thing!

2% of the time – knocking various objects around the floor.

Usually our Kitten is busy running around like a nutcase and she’ll see something she wants to attack, so she does! We have a few objects on the floor for her, but none of them were bought as a Cat toy… We have a few metal Christmas Tree ornaments with bells in, we have some bottle caps, we have some plastic egg-shaped things (that did contain candy) and her most favorite – we have the little foam circles that came from a blank CD spool. Yes, you read that right, the favorite toy of both our Kitten – and adult Cat too! – is a little bit of foam that was part of the packaging of a spool of blank CD’s!

1% of the time – playing with her “Crazy Circle” toy.

While the Crazy Circle toy is excellent and our Kitten loves it, it plays a really small part in her daily play compared to other, cheaper items. Variation is important, but your Kitten doesn’t care how much money you spend…

Above you can see a video of our Kitten playing with the Crazy Circle. You can buy one from Amazon (USA) Small | Large.